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Thread: Australian Silver Polish Brands

  1. #1

    Australian Silver Polish Brands

    G'day all,
    I understand most people here are in the States, but I'm currently trying to find a safe non-abrasive silver polish that's available to get in Australia. I've read that Hagerty's Spray Polish works the best and is easiest to get through to the valve blocks and such, but it costs a whopping $100 AUD on eBay to buy per bottle (that's almost $70 USD. Ouch!). A few people I've asked in person uses Silvo, but I've read online that it's abrasive to silver plated objects, which includes my instrument!

    Through Amazon, I can get the following polishes which I've read to be safe:
    Hagerty 10080 Silversmiths' Silver Polish, 8oz
    Hagerty Silversmiths Pump Spray Polish, 8oz
    I've read that the formula they use between the bottled and spray versions are different, but does anyone know if one is any less effective? The Pump Spray is 2.5x the price of just the bottled version, and so if the bottled version works fine enough, then I'll settle for it, and I suppose I'll just use q-tips to get through the nooks and crannies.

    Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Liquid
    - I've read this gets rid of tarnish really well.
    Blitz 20633 Shine Liquid Polish for Sterling and and Silver-Plated, 8oz - This is the most non-abrasive polish I've read to be, and it'll be the safest (I just don't want it to be too non-abrasive that it isn't effective).

    Alternatively, I can also get these shipped from the States:
    Shine! Wright's Silver Cream, 8oz
    Weiman Silver Cleaner and Polish, 8oz


    Also, there's a spot on my eupho where it seems to have not just tarnished, but actually broken through the silver plating itself, is there any fixes for this, or would I have to re-plate the entire thing?


    Cheers everyone.

  2. #2
    If you can find the Blue Magic polish that comes in a jar, that has worked for me. The jar, squirt bottle, and spray versions are not the same. The stuff in the jar is not safe for lacquer. If you happen to be able to buy the squirt bottle (unobtainium), it's softer/wetter and lacquer safe. Never used the spray bottle, but also can't find it for sale.

    I have a satin silver horn that was completely black when I got it. I used Tarn-X to convert the black stuff to white stuff. That process was pretty easy since Tarn-X is like water. I then used Blue Magic on the white tarnish and the result was basically perfect. I doubt that you want to invest in a super expensive bottle of Tarn-X, but if you like that white tarnish look, there you go. Blue Magic on its own is sufficient for all but the worst levels of oxidation.

    And as an added do-not-buy, I definitely don't recommend Mr. Metal. Don't know if you can even get it in Australia, but it's useless. All it does is smell like urine. A dry tissue is more effective.
    Hobbyist. Collector. Oval rotary guy. Unpaid shill for Josef Klier mouthpieces.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA, USA
    Posts
    102
    I have both of those Hagerty types. I hoped for the spray to be more misty - kind of a spray and rinse magic wand - but it pumps out liquid globules; still have to spread it around and wipe it off.
    I’ll use it up, but thereafter I’ll stick with the regular non-spray version and resume my practice of thinning it with dish detergent prior to application. Makes it easier to remove the vestiges of dried-on polish, imo.
    I switched to Hagerty years ago after realizing that the Tarni-shield that I’d been using since the 80s has abrasive in it. I think most silver polishes do. At least they did when I was looking to switch, but Hagerty was/is non-abrasive.
    For the small, intricate bits (valve caps, etc.,) I use the washing-soda/aluminum-foil method, then tarnish-protect them with a quick & easy, light Hagerty application and rinse. Works well with silver-plated mouthpieces, too.

  4. #4
    From my past experience, I think the best product is Haggerty liquid. It seems to give the longest-lasting tarnish protection. I chose to use the aerosol spray on a satin silver Besson because I did not have to rub it quite as much, and it is easier to get it into the small spaces.

    As I recall, a repair person told me it is possible to "spot plate" silver on a small spot, but it was a long time ago and I can't swear to my memory's accuracy.
    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA, USA
    Posts
    102
    Quote Originally Posted by davewerden View Post
    As I recall, a repair person told me it is possible to "spot plate" silver on a small spot, but it was a long time ago and I can't swear to my memory's accuracy.
    I've used the wipe-on 'silver plate' mock-electroplate liquids. It's actual silver, and masks the brass decently well (it's not quite as silvery as the 'real' plating, but it's a lot better than the naked brass). But it's purely cosmetic for non-contact points, because it's quite fragile to handling.

    For my silver horns, I buy a couple yards of Pacific Silver Cloth, and cut it down so I can lay the horn on it and fold the top layer over prior to closing the case. It stretches the time between polishings.

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