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Compensating Slide Moisture on FRONT-Valve Horns

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  • davewerden
    Administrator
    • Nov 2005
    • 11136

    #16
    It might work to tip the horn forward in a way that has that compensating slide pointing level or downward, then blow air through with 14 pushed. The water should find its way to the main tuning slide.
    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
    Adams Artist (Adams E3)
    Alliance Mouthpiece DC3, Wick 4AL, Wick 4ABL
    YouTube: dwerden
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    • hyperbolica
      Member
      • Feb 2018
      • 133

      #17
      Maybe I should also mention that when I do take out the 1st valve comp loop, it comes out with a jerk and hits the 3rd valve circuit.

      Comment

      • guidocorona
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2018
        • 483

        #18
        Hi Hyperbolica, the insertion tolerance of the 1st comp loop on the Wessex Festivo is intentionally somewhat stiff, as the loop’s socks are very short, and a more lax insertion might cause the loop to fall out on its own.

        In early days, I did experienced the loop clanging onto the 3rd slide assembly upon release…. So I developed a method that avoids the problem entirely.

        • I hold Festivo bell up, more/less parallel to body, valve buttons facing out.
        • * Insert a soft absorbent cloth through the opening space above the braces of the main slide and 3rd valve slide….. This is meant to cushion any accidental metal-to-metal impact.
        • Hold the 1st comp loop as follows with my left hand:
        • * Ring finger through the loop’s pull-ring;
        • * Brace with index and middle finger on outer side, and thumb on inner side of loop.
        • * Jiggle back/forth very gently, and pull ever-gently the loop down until it disengages.

        My hand-grip typically prevents the loop from tapping the metal, and any slight mishap will be dampened by the cloth.
        The cloth also absorbs any water falling out of the open tubeing above.

        I then:

        • Turn the loop upside down and tap it on the cloth to empty most of the condensation.
        • * I push Residual water out of the tube by blowing straight into the loop from both sides…. Yes, this might get mist on my face.
        • Press valves 1 and 4, and then blow hard….. Some Water will be expelled downwards from the open 1st valve assembly.
        • Reinsert the comp loop…. I use slight jiggling motion to aid the operation, until the loop is firmly in place.

        I found that applying on occasion a tiny amount of Corning Silicon Vacuum Grease smooth release and insertion ops.

        Note: The pull-ring on the loop is not exactly at the bottom, but slightly to one side…. I always insure that when the loop is in place, the pull-ring points slightly opposite the valve buttons, that is slightly towards me…. This position facilitates smooth removal and insertions.

        Hope this helps.

        Regards, Guido
        Last edited by guidocorona; 09-04-2021, 09:52 AM.
        M5050L - DC2&3, SM2&4U, BT16, Carbonaria Heavy & New
        Wessex EP104 Festivo - available
        Carolbrass CCR7772 Bb cornet - Available

        Comment

        • ghmerrill
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2011
          • 2382

          #19
          If you're having such annoying experience with this, why not just add a water key where necessary? I added Amado water keys to the 1st and 3rd tuning slides of my 1924 Eb tuba because I got tired of pulling them so frequently (I think it would make an excellent condenser for a distillery). They were easy to add, are out of the way, and work well. Adding a more conventional water key would not be substantially more difficult. Any tech should be able to do it in about 20 minutes.
          Gary Merrill
          Wessex EEb Bass tuba (DW 3XL or 2XL)
          Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
          Amati Oval Euph (DE 104, Euph J, J6 euph)
          1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba (with std US receiver), Kelly 25
          Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K10/112/14 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
          1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)

          Comment

          • guidocorona
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2018
            • 483

            #20
            Hi Gary, and thank you for the excellent suggestion....

            For me at least,, periodically dumping Festivo's 1st comp loop is a minor inconvenience rather than a bothersome chore.

            But I recognize that a water key -- particularly of the Amado variant, given the small curvature radius of the 1st comp loop -- would be a fine ergonomic touch. I am concerned that Installation by a tech might be a little elaborate, because it would also involve the de-soddering of the widish base of the pull-ring currently mounted on it, and then relacquering of the affected part of the loop at end of job.

            On the other hand, it would be very easy for the Wessex factory to modify this loop with the addition of a water key, and perhaps include such enhancement on future versions of Festivo….. I'll suggest it to James Garney as soon as I manage to make contact with him.

            Regards, Guido
            M5050L - DC2&3, SM2&4U, BT16, Carbonaria Heavy & New
            Wessex EP104 Festivo - available
            Carolbrass CCR7772 Bb cornet - Available

            Comment

            • guidocorona
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2018
              • 483

              #21
              To Ann Reed:

              Hello Ann, I received an email from James Garney at Wessex USA....

              According to James, "There is not a "new" version of the Festivo, at least not to my knowledge, it's more that the pictures on the website for the festivo are out of date." and so do not reflect the current layout.

              Then James continues... "The current version of the Festivo is the one that has been around since I [James] started and is the one with a leadpipe more similar to our [Wessex's] Duplex model. Aside
              from that, the only real changes are the removal of the left hand thumb ring. We haven't changed anything else on the horn."

              The above also implies that my own Festivo unit, having water-keys on 3rd, 4th, main slide, and on maccherone little tubing, and with pull-ring on 1st comp loop, but missing a thumb- ring for the left hand, reflects the latest layout.

              BTW, the most effective way to contact James may be by Email. He can be reached at:

              dolce@wessex-tubas.com

              Regards, Guido
              M5050L - DC2&3, SM2&4U, BT16, Carbonaria Heavy & New
              Wessex EP104 Festivo - available
              Carolbrass CCR7772 Bb cornet - Available

              Comment

              • BrassedOn
                Member
                • Aug 2018
                • 32

                #22
                Yeah, I had the same issue on that horn when Play testing it a while ago. Keeping the 4th clear and Regularly (every few minutes) pressing the first and fourth and clearing the first that helps ameliorate the issue. Not waiting till the 30 minute mark. Really liked the horn with the front action and compensating, so that condensation would not be a deal breaker.

                Comment

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