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Thread: How do I make hand guards?

  1. #11
    I used cotton flannel as base for my hand strap and did not have any issues with damage or tarnish to the silver. But I do take it out at least once every week to wipe down.

    Is there a particular reason you want a guard? I understand wanting to protect your horn but even with a guard, you should be taking the guard out on and off to wipe it down. With that in mind, I hardly see a reason to have a guard on . Just gotta gently wipe down the horn after each practice and then use a wet cloth every so often, as per Mr. Werden's suggestions. Unless of course your sweat is very corrosive or something.
    Last edited by ChristianeSparkle; 01-20-2020 at 07:19 PM.
    "Never over complicate things. Accept "bad" days. Always enjoy yourself when playing, love the sound we can make on our instruments (because that's why we all started playing the Euph)"

    Euph: Yamaha 642II Neo - 千歌音
    Mouthpiece: K&G 4D, Denis Wick 5AL

  2. #12
    I should probably mention that a bell guard such as the one I used will change the sound of your horn a bit. On my Besson and Sterling I liked the change; it mellowed the sound somewhat, which seemed to fit both those horns well. You might also notice a change in how the horn responds, but with the heavy-weight bell on both those horns I didn't notice a difference in response. It's very minor, so if there is a compelling reason to use a guard, I would not worry about it.
    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
    Adams Artist (Adams E3)
    Alliance Mouthpiece (DC4)
    YouTube: dwerden
    Facebook: davewerden
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Central North Carolina
    I've made my own (tuba and euph) guards out of leather -- which is great, but tends to be a bit expensive even if you can get to a Tandy store (or something similar) and buy random pieces of "remaindered" leather.

    But I've also had a lot of success with the plastic shelf liner that you can get at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. (the smooth, fairly thick but flexible stuff). I use that in a couple of places on my bass trombone and on one of my tubas as well. An advantage is that it glues easily (so you don't have to lace it). Once you make a pattern for the piece(s) you need, then it's easy to put the guards on by gluing it to itself with super glue (be careful not to get it on the horn!), and then just cut them off and make/attach new ones when you want to. Or you can glue Velcro strips to it if you want to be able to take it on and off. Avoiding lacing is a good idea if you can, at least in anything other than leather, since the lacing will eventually distort or tear through the holes in most materials.
    Gary Merrill
    Wessex EEb Bass tuba (PT-63)
    Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
    Amati Oval Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J6 euph)
    1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba (with std US receiver), Kellyberg
    Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K9/112 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
    1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)

  4. #14
    It's a complicated issue. I'll try to consult with a chemist I know this week, he should give me an answer to which material is best suited. As soon as there's more information, I'll supplement that message.

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