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Thread: Monster Oil - Why does it turn brown?

  1. Monster Oil - Why does it turn brown?

    I recently got some Monster valve oil to try, and I must say that it really does seem to make the valves move more quickly. However, when I empty the water from the tuning slides it comes out brown. I am thinking it must be reacting with my other oil or with the moisture or something. Has anyone else experienced this?

  2. What kind of valve oil were you using before? It may have anti-corrosion properties that are removing oxidation from the valve casings and/or tubes.
    Sterling / Perantucci 1065HGS Euphonium, Yamaha YBB-631S BBb Tuba, and a bunch of trombones.

  3. I was using Roche-Thomas, and still have been, intermittently. There is otherwise no evidence of corrosion inside the horn. It is an Adams and I keep it pretty clean.
    Last edited by daniel76309; 01-12-2020 at 06:40 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    153
    Well, one thing you should never do is use two different kinds of oils at the same time, you always have to clean your valves before applying a different kind of oil (same goes for slide grease etc). So if you haven't done that it COULD be the two oils reacting with eachother.
    Willson 2960TA Celebration
    1979 Boosey & Hawkes Sovereign (Globe Stamp)
    Mouthpiece: Denis Wick SM4

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Anderson, Indiana
    Posts
    230
    Excellent suggestion above to thoroughly clean your valves (and casings). But...another explanation could be that this valve oil doesn't react well with your spit. I've had that problem with every synthetic valve oil that I've tried. I end up colored liquid coming from the spit valves and sludge build-up in the valve ports. It's petroleum based valve oil for me.

  6. I asked the Monster people via their website, and they say that a slight yellowish tint is from anti-corrosive agent, but I would say that this is more than slight and I would definitely call it brown. I suppose mixing of oil types could be a problem, but then again, for automotive use, "synthetic blends" (synthetic mixed with conventional) are pretty common. Anyway, the oil works well despite the color.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    2,038
    Perhaps you had some minor corrosion in your horn, and the new oil's anti-corrosion additives are ... er ... anti-corroding it -- resulting in the brown color as a suspension in the oil. If so, a thorough cleaning might change things. Or the color may disappear slowly over time as whatever is being dissolved by the oil is thoroughly removed from the instrument.
    Gary Merrill
    Wessex EEb Bass tuba (Denis Wick 3XL)
    Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
    Amati Oval Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J6 euph)
    1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba, modified Kelly 25
    Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K9/112 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
    1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)

  8. Maybe so... I will keep on using it and see if it decreases with time.

  9. #9
    I get some darkish looking stuff out of my main drain. I have been using Monster for a few months now and really like it. I use the Doc's Juice version of Monster Oil. I'll stay with this until I find a reason to change, if I do...
    John Morgan
    The U.S. Army Band (Pershing's Own) 1971-1976
    Adams E3 Custom Series Euphonium, Wessex EP-100 Dolce Euphonium, 1956 B&H Imperial Euphonium
    Adams TB1 Tenor Trombone, Yamaha YBL-822G Bass Trombone
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    Rapid City New Horizons & Municipal Bands (Euphonium)
    Black Hills Symphony Orchestra (Bass Trombone), Powder River Symphony, Gillette, WY (Tenor Trombone)
    Black Hills Brass Quintet (Tuba)

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel76309 View Post
    I recently got some Monster valve oil to try, and I must say that it really does seem to make the valves move more quickly. However, when I empty the water from the tuning slides it comes out brown. I am thinking it must be reacting with my other oil or with the moisture or something. Has anyone else experienced this?
    I have had similar problems with every synthetic oil I have used. Most recently, I tried Resilience Oils light valve oil and it did not work. It felt good right after application, but after a few hours it became sluggish and there was a whitish coating on the valves. A lot of oils have surfactants, corrosion inhibitors etc., which for me tend to gunk things up. I switched to Flip Oakes Oil and no longer have these issues. I may have to oil more frequently, but at least my valves move!

    Mike

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