Monster Oil - Why does it turn brown?

[daniel76309]

I recently got some Monster valve oil to try, and I must say that it really does seem to make the valves move more quickly. However, when I empty the water from the tuning slides it comes out brown. I am thinking it must be reacting with my other oil or with the moisture or something. Has anyone else experienced this?

[tbonesullivan]

What kind of valve oil were you using before? It may have anti-corrosion properties that are removing oxidation from the valve casings and/or tubes.

[daniel76309]

I was using Roche-Thomas, and still have been, intermittently. There is otherwise no evidence of corrosion inside the horn. It is an Adams and I keep it pretty clean.

[TheJH]

Well, one thing you should never do is use two different kinds of oils at the same time, you always have to clean your valves before applying a different kind of oil (same goes for slide grease etc). So if you haven't done that it COULD be the two oils reacting with eachother.

[enhite]

Excellent suggestion above to thoroughly clean your valves (and casings). But...another explanation could be that this valve oil doesn't react well with your spit. I've had that problem with every synthetic valve oil that I've tried. I end up colored liquid coming from the spit valves and sludge build-up in the valve ports. It's petroleum based valve oil for me.

[daniel76309]

I asked the Monster people via their website, and they say that a slight yellowish tint is from anti-corrosive agent, but I would say that this is more than slight and I would definitely call it brown. I suppose mixing of oil types could be a problem, but then again, for automotive use, "synthetic blends" (synthetic mixed with conventional) are pretty common. Anyway, the oil works well despite the color.

[ghmerrill]

Perhaps you had some minor corrosion in your horn, and the new oil's anti-corrosion additives are ... er ... anti-corroding it -- resulting in the brown color as a suspension in the oil. If so, a thorough cleaning might change things. Or the color may disappear slowly over time as whatever is being dissolved by the oil is thoroughly removed from the instrument.

[daniel76309]

Maybe so... I will keep on using it and see if it decreases with time.

[John Morgan]

I get some darkish looking stuff out of my main drain. I have been using Monster for a few months now and really like it. I use the Doc's Juice version of Monster Oil. I'll stay with this until I find a reason to change, if I do...

[mbrooke]

I recently got some Monster valve oil to try, and I must say that it really does seem to make the valves move more quickly. However, when I empty the water from the tuning slides it comes out brown. I am thinking it must be reacting with my other oil or with the moisture or something. Has anyone else experienced this?

I have had similar problems with every synthetic oil I have used. Most recently, I tried Resilience Oils light valve oil and it did not work. It felt good right after application, but after a few hours it became sluggish and there was a whitish coating on the valves. A lot of oils have surfactants, corrosion inhibitors etc., which for me tend to gunk things up. I switched to Flip Oakes Oil and no longer have these issues. I may have to oil more frequently, but at least my valves move!

Mike

[mbrooke]

I get some darkish looking stuff out of my main drain. I have been using Monster for a few months now and really like it. I use the Doc's Juice version of Monster Oil. I'll stay with this until I find a reason to change, if I do...

Hi John,

Hows does the Monster oil compare with the Resilience Oil?

Mike

[John Morgan]

Mike,

I tried Resilience Oil and thought it might be good, initially it felt good and the valves were quick. But, alas, I got crud in the bottom of my valve chambers, big time, so I discontinued it. I still have several bottles of the Resilience Oil, so who knows, maybe sometime in the future I will try it again. But I am pretty happy with the Monster Oil as of now. I use it pretty liberally.

John