Questions About My Boosey & Hawks Imperial

[bariforhire]

I hope I am posting in the correct sub forum... if not, feel free to move it.

First question is, is it possible to replace either the bottom caps on the main valve block or possibly the whole block? The reason I ask is, I would like to have a gutter guard on the bottom of the caps to catch the water which is currently ending up all over the instrument and my trousers. The caps on a Besson Sovereign are built to accommodate a gutter guard. If it is possible, who would I send it to in the USA? I know McQueen is highly rated in the UK, but just the shipping costs and the turn around time would be a problem. I hope you expert can help me out here.

Second question, I have been trying to put a manufacture date on my B & H Imperial but I have a problem. I have two numbers which could possibly be the serial number . I have added pictures so you can see what I am talking about. First there is the number L.P. 182203 stamped on the bell, and there is the number 143535 stamped on the second valve. The L.P. 182203 would make it a 1952 manufacture date, but I suspect the L.P. could stand for lead pipe, but I don't know why they would stamp a lead pipe number on the bell though. I lean toward the 143535 number on the second valve casing which would make it manufactured in 1933.

I have owned a 1997 Besson Sovereign and it did not hold a candle to this instrument for that beautiful dark, rich tone. I have always heard experts say...stay away from older instrument because the are out of tune on certain notes. Well, there is not one note out of tune on the old timer, but the Besson had a couple.

[davewerden]

I'm not sure, but I think the serial number on the valve block is primary. Perhaps the bell was replaced at some point.

You should check out the parts sources here:

http://www.dwerden.com/forum/showthr...-Parts-Sources

Getting bottom caps may be possible. If not, a good repair tech could probably fashion the nipple part and solder it onto your existing caps.

[daruby]

I would lean towards the horn being 1952 based on the (LP) Low Pitch serial number on the bell. The location on the bell is the correct one for the serial number of the horn. Since many bands (and virtually all SA bands) were still high pitch, Boosey & Hawkes would stamp either the serial number or the bell insignia with an LP to indicate a horn tuned more towards A=440 (or so). Except for Salvation Army destined horns, virtually all production shipped to the US would be LP.

Often the serial number on the valve block is for the valve block only. This was done because the valve blocks are manufactured and machined separately and then married with the rest of the horn in assembly. The valve block serial number is used to keep pistons and casings together as a group. Pistons have to be removed during the soldering of tubing to the valve block and later during buffing and plating. It is important that the correct pistons go back into the correct casings since they were "hand fitted" during the original manufacture of the block.

Finally, I think if the horn was of 1933 manufacture, wouldn't it be a Solbron instead of an Imperial?

Doug

[Euph Loosh]

I agree that the B&H Imperial has a lovely sound. I have owned one for a few years, Serial LP 223***, which is a bit newer than yours. I share your "pain" regarding the water issue. I just prefer to work with it (I don't want to alter the horn) by placing an absorbent terrycloth towel under the valve bottoms.
I have sent you a PM with the name of a tech that I use.

Happy playing!

[RickF]

See this post for a possible solution to catching drips from the bottom of valves:

Tube sock solution:
http://www.dwerden.com/forum/showthr...9047#post99047

[Euph Loosh]

See this post for a possible solution to catching drips from the bottom of valves:

Tube sock solution:
http://www.dwerden.com/forum/showthr...9047#post99047

Excellent suggestions. I think that I have a few spare socks as there always seems to be one missing after the laundry is done!
Thanks Rick!