First impressions of my new silver Wessex Dolce

[kennyg48]

Any valve oil recommendations for the Wessex Dolce?

[John Morgan]

Again -- and I've mentioned this in other threads -- why is the reported incidence of these problems so much higher with the 2nd valve? From my perspective this is eerily disturbing. Like ... is there only ONE guy who works on 2nd valves on the Wessex instruments and "screws things up"? How is he getting these problems past the inspection step? Can't he be replaced?

Well, I did get my Wessex Dolce over three years ago, so maybe things have changed a bit since. My Wessex Bombino tuba has the same quirk in that the 2nd valve is the really testy one, and I got that a little over a year ago. It's a mystery why it seems to be a problem more with the 2nd valve. This seems to be a useful thesis or dissertation topic.

[guidocorona]

Hello kennyg48,

I have been using Ultrapure on the valves of my Wessex Festivo EP104 since last July with seemingly good results... The oil does not appear to dry up particularly quickly, and the valves have been steadily becoming quieter and faster.

https://www.ultrapureoils.com/

At some future I might try one of the variants of Monster oil... E.g. the version designed for Adams horns, which is formulated with a small percentage of silicon, and is said to be particularly long lasting.

http://www.monsteroil.net/shop-all/

Regards, Guido

[davewerden]

Well, I did get my Wessex Dolce over three years ago, so maybe things have changed a bit since. My Wessex Bombino tuba has the same quirk in that the 2nd valve is the really testy one, and I got that a little over a year ago. It's a mystery why it seems to be a problem more with the 2nd valve. This seems to be a useful thesis or dissertation topic.

I don't see any reason why the threads would be different on the 2nd casing. But I COULD see that maybe the placement causes us humans to hold things slightly differently. When you thread the cap on, your angle is more limited for the 2nd valve because of needing finger room, right? You are constrained on both side of 2, but only on 1 side or 1 or 3 - I think. (I don't have my horn here right now to test that theory.) Maybe something really subtle is different and it is our fingers that causes the problem more on 2 than on 1 or 3.

[Jonathantuba]

Any valve oil recommendations for the Wessex Dolce?

Wessex uses Resilience Valve Oil #1 Light. This oil suppresses build up of deposit on the stainless steel valves with a chemical coating

https://www.resilienceoils.com/produ...lve-oil-1-thin

[John Morgan]

I don't see any reason why the threads would be different on the 2nd casing. But I COULD see that maybe the placement causes us humans to hold things slightly differently. When you thread the cap on, your angle is more limited for the 2nd valve because of needing finger room, right? You are constrained on both side of 2, but only on 1 side or 1 or 3 - I think. (I don't have my horn here right now to test that theory.) Maybe something really subtle is different and it is our fingers that causes the problem more on 2 than on 1 or 3.

Well, I sort of tested that theory just now. I needed to oil my valves on the Wessex Dolce, so I just did. I unscrew the top three valve caps, oil each of the valves, then screw the valve caps back on doing the 3rd valve first, then the 2nd valve, then the 1st valve. I hold the horn totally upright. When screwing on any of the caps, nothing on either side interferes with my process, I have sufficient room to screw on each all alike. But, I use my aforementioned method and it goes swimmingly. I frankly think the 2nd valve thing is just a fluke. I agree that there doesn't seem to be much of a reason that the 2nd valve would cause way more problems in screwing on the valve caps than the 1st or 3rd.

[lzajmom]

Any valve oil recommendations for the Wessex Dolce?

I went with Blue Juice upon Dave's recommendation, and I've been very happy with it (except for the flavor). I was not happy with the oil that came with it, but that could be more about the breaking-in period or something related to shipping than the oil itself. I'm doubtful about the shipping aspect though, since that sucker arrived at my door less than 48 hours after I ordered.

[kennyg48]

Thank you for the valve oil recommendations

[ghmerrill]

Maybe something really subtle is different and it is our fingers that causes the problem more on 2 than on 1 or 3.

In the cases I'm familiar with (my own and others), the problem is evident from the beginning and so doesn't develop as a result of wear. I think it's also not restricted to Wessex. The suggestion of taking this as a thesis topic is fine, but I think it will really require an international investigative commission. I would be happy to serve on such a commission -- assuming that an appropriate compensation agreement could be reached; but I'd strongly prefer that it be headquartered in Basel, purely for the purposes of international neutrality, of course.

[bbocaner]

Wessex uses Resilience Valve Oil #1 Light. This oil suppresses build up of deposit on the stainless steel valves with a chemical coating

https://www.resilienceoils.com/produ...lve-oil-1-thin

I hadn't heard of this oil, but since seeing this post I've been looking at their web site and some of the reviews on other forums and it sounds very impressive. I've ordered a bottle and will report back!

[kennyg48]

I hadn't heard of this oil, but since seeing this post I've been looking at their web site and some of the reviews on other forums and it sounds very impressive. I've ordered a bottle and will report back!

Looks like this company only ships within the USA

[davewerden]

I hadn't heard of this oil, but since seeing this post I've been looking at their web site and some of the reviews on other forums and it sounds very impressive. I've ordered a bottle and will report back!

I'm anxious to hear how it works out for you!

[John Morgan]

Hmm, I read up on the Resilience Valve oil. I, too, will be very interested to hear your feedback, Barry. I am currently using Monster Oil, specifically "Doc's Juice", which according to the Monster Oil dudes, is actually the same as what came with my Adams (It was Monster Oil made for the Adams). This oil has something extra in it from their other Monster Oils (and costs a buck more!). So far, I am pretty darn happy with it. What I am looking for is a synthetic that will not give me the gunk buildup.

[davewerden]

...What I am looking for is a synthetic that will not give me the gunk buildup.

And THAT is why I'm interested, too!

[ghmerrill]

Yes, this looks quite good on paper (or, rather, on the screen). I note with some amusement that they are using one of the same marketing pitches that Yamaha is with its "Superior" line of synthetic oils: that the molecular structure of the purely synthetic oils endows them with advantages in adhering to surfaces and not drying out. It's all about "molecular stability". I'm sure that we can all get behind this movement.

Really, the explanation of the oil chemistry on their "Difference in Oils" page makes complete sense and lays out the real differences between the synthetic and petroleum oils.

This is obviously a fairly new company -- and their web pages aren't even complete yet, and they're only selling directly and through a few local music shops. The ordering process is currently pretty clunky, and navigating to and from the cart and adding items to an order is a little painful. The checkout process is also a bit wonky: check all the details before you actually confirm the order. I had it do some goofy things when I edited some of the fields I'd entered.

I just ordered a bottle of the #1 oil (apparently the #3 and the rotor oil aren't yet available)and the "F-1 Kick Gel" that I want to try on my 1924 tuba.