Originally Posted by
Snorlax
As to the mouthpiece where it inserts into the receiver, I can't think of any point at which a non-soldered metal-to-metal bond would be stronger, unless there is a poor fit of the mouthpiece into the receiver--in which case a repair to the receiver or the mouthpiece would provide a secure fit.
In fact, it can be so strong that you may need some mechanical advantage to break that bond. I've had some mildly embarrassing experiences with my Wick 3XL tuba mouthpiece in my Wessex Eb tuba where at the end of a rehearsal I couldn't extract it from the receiver until I got home and could manage to torque it out by using some rubber shelf liner material to get enough friction to turn it. So far as I can see, this happens if I manage to insert it while turning it a bit, and then the horn heats up and that joint seems to really "bond". Sometimes all it's taken is for the horn to cool down, and by the time I got home, the mouthpiece came out as usual. But in other situations, I've had to use the rubber friction aid to get it out.
... remember that little plastic collar that was supposed to be slipped into the fourth valve slide to open up the low register on tubas and euphoniums? What was it called? At least it cost only $20 or so.
Somehow I missed this. Maybe it was during the 10 years when I'd stopped playing? Please try to retrieve the name of this item from your aging and overloaded memory. I'm very curious about it -- particularly because, on the face of it, it seems completely insane.
Gary Merrill
Wessex EEb Bass tuba (DW 3XL or 2XL)
Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
Amati Oval Euph (DE 104, Euph J, J6 euph)
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba (with std US receiver), Kelly 25
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K10/112/14 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)