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Thread: 1927 Conn Double Bell Euph

  1. 1927 Conn Double Bell Euph

    I have a 1927 conn double bell euph, which I just had serviced to get cleaned, dents removed and solder work done. It appears that this horn is in low pitch. I have found that I can play reasonably well in tune if I pull the slides out and tune the open horn down a half step to A. This makes reading music a little problematic, as I sometimes forget and revert back to Bb fingerings. I was wondering if there are other suggestions for playing this instrument with modern tuning. I'm using a Schilke 51D small shank mouthpiece. I know this is a bit large, but it's what I have. The mouthpiece also sticks out of the receiver about 1/4" more than on modern instruments. It's similar to my olds trombone receiver. The repair shop advised against shortening the horn, since it's in pretty good shape all around. Can I get my mouthpiece modified to fit better? will this make enough difference in overall length? Thank you for your advice.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Low Pitch is usually A=440, considered modern. Yours, unfortunately, is just flat with that MP.

    Turn the shank smaller to raise it a bit.

    Dennis

  3. Thank you. I'll try another mouthpiece, perhaps with some modification. Is there a recommended size? I tried a pretty small (12c?) mouthpiece. That didn't seem to improve intonation, and tone suffered somewhat. I'm not sure where to get a mouthpiece turned/shortened. Does Doug Elliot Sell these sized shanks?

  4. #4
    You might start with a shallower mouthpiece too. Perhaps get a Kelly 6-1/2AL for only $26 to start with:

    http://kellymouthpieces.com/kmtrombonesmall/index.asp

    or from here for $24:

    http://www.amazon.com/TB65CO-Crystal.../dp/B003CTGXHA

    That might do the trick. If not, you have a bigger decision to make!

    If it were my horn, and it's not, I would shorten it to get it to normal pitch when you use an appropriate mouthpiece. I don't think the 51 is appropriate even with a trimmed shank. I doubt there is much value in the horn as a "display case" collectable. Most folks who would buy it want to play it, and they would like it to be playable with modern pianos and bands. So I don't know why one would not have the work done.
    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
    Adams Artist (Adams E3)
    Alliance Mouthpiece (DC3)
    YouTube: dwerden
    Facebook: davewerden
    Twitter: davewerden
    Instagram: davewerdeneuphonium

  5. I assume they would have to shorten all the slides in order for this to work, or would one be able to trim length by replacing the leadpipe, and main tuning slides. I enjoy playing the horn, but don't want to spend a ton of money on it right now. I mostly play it in Tubachristmas performances where intonation can be pretty suspect all around. I have other horns for more serious playing, but like you said it would be nice if the horn were playable with modern instruments.

  6. #6
    I think the tuning and valve slides would all be shortened. You would not touch the leadpipe unless it also contains the main tuning slide (which some models do). You want to shorten only tubes that are cylindrical.

    The inner slide is a piece of cake to shorten. They just have to cut off the ends neatly.

    The outer part of the slide may be easy or a bit harder. They may or may not have an extra trim ring on the open end of the outer slide. It looks like the photo below. Then you have a choice.

    1. You can just cut the outer slide and forget the trim piece. Easy/cheap.
    2. The trim piece can be unsoldered, set aside, and then re-attached after the slide is shortened. More expensive.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
    Adams Artist (Adams E3)
    Alliance Mouthpiece (DC3)
    YouTube: dwerden
    Facebook: davewerden
    Twitter: davewerden
    Instagram: davewerdeneuphonium

  7. #7
    I have retuned a 1911 Conn Double bell by shortening the main tuning slide only. The slides for the valves did not need shortening. I have done the same with a 1912 Martin Eb tuba, a 1931 Conn 28k sousaphone, a 1921 Holton Eb helicon and a 1892 J.W. Pepper Eb Helicon. Most of these horns were done by Lee Stofer, a well know and very respected technician. I suspect he has done this process 100's if not 1000s of times. Yes we checked the whole range, but in none of the cases listed above did the slides for the valves need adjustment, just the main tuning slide.

  8. #8
    Start by shortening the tuning slide. If that solves your problem then, great, you're good to go. If it doesn't, then hopefully there's enough slide left to tune it back down to A as you're doing now. If you trim the mouthpiece shank just a little bit then you'll have to sacrifice a little less tuning slide. I don't know, this is just what I'd do rather than adjust my fingerings by a half step all the time. For me that half step adjustment issue would kind of take the fun out of playing the instrument.

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