Originally posted by red423
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Magnetic dent removal
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Dave Werden (ASCAP)
Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
Adams Artist (Adams E3)
Alliance Mouthpiece DC3, Wick 4AL, Wick 4ABL
YouTube: dwerden
Facebook: davewerden
Twitter: davewerden
Instagram: davewerdeneuphonium
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Ok I just hit the remember me button, I am hoping more people remember me but if not, this will have to do. hahahahaha, I am still messing with the dent balls, seems the much older brass becomes a little hardened in storage and requires a stronger magnet to remove the dents. As I said, I have a 550lbs coming today, Also to anyone doing this I wear gloves all the time, this is to stop my body oils and such from contaminating the balls or the magnet. I also use the plastic top off those plastic soup containers you get from either a restaurant or a chinese take out. The rim of the lid helps to keep the magnet from falling off the plastic and scratching the brass. I am still trying to focus on the cleaning. I have tried naval jelly, it was so-so, I tried citric gel, it did nothing, now onto a test with citric powder mixed with warm water, I will test on an older trumpet I have here and see if it does what they claim. This is a father daughter project, seems the more I get the dents out of the one the school loaned to her, which were excessive in my opinion. The more she will practice. If I can find a stripping soulution that will work I would love to strip at least the bell of the loaner and re lacquer just so it shines out. we'll see. I grab some pics of the damage on that loaner as I have gotten the worst ones half out I can't believe they were that deep and still played...........yours red
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Originally posted by red423 View Post... seems the much older brass becomes a little hardened in storage and requires a stronger magnet to remove the dents.Gary Merrill
Wessex EEb Bass tuba (DW 3XL or 2XL)
Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
Amati Oval Euph (DE 104, Euph J, J6 euph)
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba (with std US receiver), Kelly 25
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K10/112/14 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)
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Well I was able to remove quite a few dents with the 220lb magnet. I have contacted the magnet supplier and they are sending me a 330 as well as a 500lb. After some research I found the N52 magnet used by many pro sets has a pull of 600lbs. Me being conservative in my expenditures will go the cheaper route. I have had an issue removing the old lacquer off a baritone I have been working on. I finally ordered some aviation paint remover from Amaz. as where we are living, it is not just a drive to a supply store that carries the stuff. I tried several less caustic methods but they didn't even budge the old finish. I must caution anyone reading this, always wear gloves. It isn't to protect you, It is the keep the integrity of your magnet and the dent balls from rusting from your body oils. This is very important. My next trial will be making a set of dent rods, I have access to a welder so getting a strong enough steel shaft that wont flex will be my next hunt. I had to send back one "550lb" magnet as it seems the trick to these things is singular pull vs a combined pull. Nevertheless, our daughter and her section in the band (6 other baritones) are excited at what her loaner is starting to look like without the massive dents it had. I still need to roll out several more, then try and re lacquer at the least the bell inner and outer that would really make it pop. keep you posted...........yours red
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Thanks to Gary for starting this thread, and others for chiming in. I finally got the nerve to give this a try. Gary, I believe your assessment of older brass being harder is true, at least with my two horns. My 1971 Besson is made of alloy which does not seem to be substantially thicker than my Adams (.060"), but it is much harder. I think I could dent my Adams with my finger tip, but not so with the Besson. I found that I could get what I needed in terms of magnets and balls from Amazon, economically. I had a few small dings in the bottom bow of my Adams that were bothering me, so my plan was to practice on my Besson and move on to the Adams (CAREFULLY) if all went well. This technique works very well! I got all the little dings out of my Adams very easily, with NO unintended consequences. My Besson still has a dent in the 4th valve tuning slide loop that didn't want to come out. For one thing I think there is something about the physics involved with a smaller diameter tubing versus large--also the ball I was using (1/2") isn't quite large enough, and of course the alloy is very hard.
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Sears (Craftsman) make polishing sticks in 6 different grits. I used these with a 4" cloth wheel on a desktop drill press to polish stainless steel parts from a 50 year old car. It takes time. A lot has to do with the amount of scratching on your horn. If the scratches are deep, like 200 grit sand paper, you will never get it polished. If the finish has been sanded with a scotchbrite pad, the scratches are too deep to remove with polish. You would need to sand up to 1000 grit or finer before you being polishing. Since brass horns are shiny due to the clear lacquer finish, I don't know what results you would get if the lacquer is gone.
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Originally posted by red423 View PostI must caution anyone reading this, always wear gloves. It isn't to protect you, It is the keep the integrity of your magnet and the dent balls from rusting from your body oils.Gary Merrill
Wessex EEb Bass tuba (DW 3XL or 2XL)
Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
Amati Oval Euph (DE 104, Euph J, J6 euph)
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba (with std US receiver), Kelly 25
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K10/112/14 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)
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Originally posted by daniel76309 View PostMy Besson still has a dent in the 4th valve tuning slide loop that didn't want to come out. For one thing I think there is something about the physics involved with a smaller diameter tubing versus large--also the ball I was using (1/2") isn't quite large enough, and of course the alloy is very hard.
But I'm glad that this has worked out so well for you guys -- though we may not have heard from others because they're still pinned by their magnets against vises, anvils, or other steel items, and can't reach their phones or computers.Gary Merrill
Wessex EEb Bass tuba (DW 3XL or 2XL)
Mack Brass Compensating Euph (DE N106, Euph J, J9 euph)
Amati Oval Euph (DE 104, Euph J, J6 euph)
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba (with std US receiver), Kelly 25
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone (DE LB K/K10/112/14 Lexan, Brass Ark MV50R)
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Olds #3)
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Originally posted by ghmerrill View Post-- though we may not have heard from others because they're still pinned by their magnets against vises, anvils, or other steel items, and can't reach their phones or computers.
HA HA!
Yes, I said physics, but you are correct-- "geometry" is more like it. I can't explain exactly why, but intuitively I know that something about popping a dent out of small diameter tubing is going to be more difficult than larger tubing with "flatter" contour.
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