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Thread: New Finger Buttons for my Sterling

  1. The octagonal buttons are an old design. Write Paul Riggett at Sterling to see if you can get one....

    Doug
    Adams E3 0.60 Sterling bell - Prototype top sprung valves
    Concord Band
    Winchendon Winds
    Townsend Military Band

  2. Thanks very much for the advice! That must mean mine is one of the older ones I suppose. It also has distinct 90 degree sharp right angles (instead of rounded) to the first and third valve tubing at the downward bend. I'll give that a shot. Maybe I'll also ask him where to get replacement valve guides for when that becomes necessary in the future.
    Bob Tampa FL USA
    Euph -- 1984 B&H Round Stamp Sovereign 967 / 1978 Besson NS 767 / Early 90s Sterling MP: 4AL and GW Carbonaria
    Tuba -- 2014 Wisemann 900 CC / 2013 Mack 410 MP: Blokepiece Symphony American Shank and 33.2 #2 Rim

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by tampaworth View Post
    Maybe I'll also ask him where to get replacement valve guides for when that becomes necessary in the future.
    It would be good to get a set of replacement guides. But if Paul can't get them any more (they were a non-standard part, originally made for pumps, if I remember correctly), you may still be OK. I'm assuming yours are the ones that are round. If so, they are actually a plastic rod that inserts well into the valve. There is a tine set-screw on top of the piston that holds the guide in place. You could loosen that, cox the rod out slightly, and tighten it up again. Just be sure you don't over-tighten or you could snap it off! So if the guide becomes worn, move the guide outward slightly and then file its end down so it fits the slot.
    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
    Adams Artist (Adams E3)
    Alliance Mouthpiece (DC3)
    YouTube: dwerden
    Facebook: davewerden
    Twitter: davewerden
    Instagram: davewerdeneuphonium

  4. Quote Originally Posted by davewerden View Post
    I'm assuming yours are the ones that are round. If so, they are actually a plastic rod that inserts well into the valve. There is a tiny set-screw on top of the piston that holds the guide in place. You could loosen that, coax the rod out slightly, and tighten it up again. Just be sure you don't over-tighten or you could snap it off! So if the guide becomes worn, move the guide outward slightly and then file its end down so it fits the slot.

    That is exactly the design of the guides. A big thank you for that advice as I would never have thought of that in a million years. I'll try to get what is still available for replacement from Paul before it becomes obsolete and will take care if I attempt this in the future. Of course with a good brass tech, they could improvise in a heartbeat... but with my local experience to date I'm hesitant to let it out of my hands
    Bob Tampa FL USA
    Euph -- 1984 B&H Round Stamp Sovereign 967 / 1978 Besson NS 767 / Early 90s Sterling MP: 4AL and GW Carbonaria
    Tuba -- 2014 Wisemann 900 CC / 2013 Mack 410 MP: Blokepiece Symphony American Shank and 33.2 #2 Rim

  5. Hi Doug,

    Which Sterling model do you have? The standard red brass or heavy bell? Any thoughts on how that compares to the Besson?

    Also, did lightening the caps make the longer valve travel less obvious compared to your Besson?

    Thanks,
    Peter

  6. Quote Originally Posted by daruby View Post
    The octagonal buttons are an old design. Write Paul Riggett at Sterling to see if you can get one....
    @daruby I've sent two emails to Sterling last week and haven't heard a peep back... what email address should I use?

    Best,
    Peter

  7. Quote Originally Posted by 50MilesToGo View Post
    @daruby I've sent two emails to Sterling last week and haven't heard a peep back... what email address should I use?

    Best,
    Peter
    Peter, re: emails from Paul, give it some time. He may be travelling and keep in mind it is a very small shop so it isn't like he is able to spend a lot of time in the blogosphere.

    As regards my Sterling Virtuoso IV, it is a heavy red brass 300mm (11.8") bell with "Besson-style" placement of the bell bracing, and custom installation of the Besson plastic belly plate. I have had the horn now for 4 years (since Fall of 2009). I also have my Besson Prestige 2051 since spring of 2007 and owned a 1980 Sovereign 967 prior to that (since new).

    I have written fairly extensively on comparisons of the horns. Net: the Sterling is darker, nicer sound, similar pitch vagaries and similar or slightly better in response to the Besson. The Sterling is physically heavier and also feels bigger due to leadpipe and hand grip location. Controls (valves and trigger) on the Sterling are heavier, but after careful break in and some judicious use of silver polish on the tuning slide legs, the Sterling is VERY smooth. Valve travel on the Sterling is identical to my Besson. Both are "long stroke" which I prefer. Changing to the Besson buttons has no impact on this. I have switched to the "Mead springs" on both horns. The Sterling springs started to soften over time and I was getting valve bounce, particularly on the 1st valve. The Mead springs have more coils and are slightl;y stiffer, so they solved this.

    I generally play my Sterling about 70% of the time and my Besson about 30%. Both are GREAT horns and I cannot imagine ever getting rid of either.

    Doug
    Adams E3 0.60 Sterling bell - Prototype top sprung valves
    Concord Band
    Winchendon Winds
    Townsend Military Band

  8. Thanks, Doug. One last question for you, is a tuning trigger necessary (every used) on the Sterling?

    Best,
    Peter

  9. #29
    I'll hop in on your question to Doug, although his opinion may be different. The Virtuoso needed a trigger less than my older Sovereign did, but FOR ME it was still necessary. Some players have an easier time bending pitch than others, and the Virtuoso might be close enough to allow that. But I needed the help of the trigger. (And of course once you get used to using it, it's harder to just abandon it.)
    Dave Werden (ASCAP)
    Euphonium Soloist, U.S. Coast Guard Band, retired
    Adams Artist (Adams E3)
    Alliance Mouthpiece (DC3)
    YouTube: dwerden
    Facebook: davewerden
    Twitter: davewerden
    Instagram: davewerdeneuphonium

  10. Quote Originally Posted by davewerden View Post
    I'll hop in on your question to Doug, although his opinion may be different. The Virtuoso needed a trigger less than my older Sovereign did, but FOR ME it was still necessary. Some players have an easier time bending pitch than others, and the Virtuoso might be close enough to allow that. But I needed the help of the trigger. (And of course once you get used to using it, it's harder to just abandon it.)
    I agree with David. The 6th partial is sharp and the trigger helps. The concert middle G (1-2) is also sharp. Either 3rd valve or trigger helps. Some of the low 4th valve rangfe (Bnat 1-2-3-4) also benefit from the trigger. Also, when playing with a mute, I often cheat and use my practice mute and a trigger rather than carry around a real mute.

    Doug
    Adams E3 0.60 Sterling bell - Prototype top sprung valves
    Concord Band
    Winchendon Winds
    Townsend Military Band

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